Marie Salamagne
Birth of a perfume
With the creation of every perfume, there is not only the desire to create a unique œuvre but also the wish to enchant. Here follows the outline of a meeting in Paris with the talented Marie Salamagne who joined Firmenich in 2001,
a Swiss family business founded in 1895, whose investment in research continues to develop the desire to understand and share the best of what nature has to offer in perfumes and aromas. Here Marie gives free rein to her imagination for an original creation inspired by the violet, that will be unveiled in the future...
Once upon a time there was the 1164 - les formula, which was developed during five main stages
The requirement
Reveal all the facets of the violet: mysterious, very green, earthy and sparkling, with notes of leather.
The desire
Propose a pure creation with beautiful raw materials. Let the ideas flow.
The formula
Violet leaf violet essence, Ambrox®, Musks Exaltenone, Helvetolide®... the products are calculated and gradually combined by computer software. Scripting and dosage are vital components in honing the formula. Many hours and trials, and frequently around 300 modifications, will be needed to achieve a balanced composition.
The weigh-in
The laboratory perfume organ allows the precise weighing of each ingredient. Natural raw materials come mostly from the Firmenich extraction centre situated in Grasse.
The evaluation
Then comes testing of the perfume, first by itself on paper strips, and then on skin, in order to assess the presence and signature of the perfume. At this point, the story of the perfume is only just beginning...