The Making of a boot

by Isabelle Toutain & Toan Vu-Huu (Photographies)

In a secret courtyard that leads out onto the rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, the John Lobb master bootmakers continue to practise their craft, as they have always done since 1902. This workshop - dedicated to made to measure - answers the dreams of the most discerning clients, one of which is to achieve the perfect fit. These unique boots require 70 hours of craftsmanship and more than 6 different production steps are involved in the process.

Taking the measurements and creating a last (4 – 5h)

The last maker finalises with the client his choice of model and the type of leather required. He then measures and notes the precise statistics of the feet to make a last out of hornbeam wood. It provides the blueprint for constructing and assembling two pairs of boots. The first is a trial pair. Cut open with a leather knife, it can be tried on to check the feet and legs position.

Designing the patterns (2 – 3h)

The pattern maker cuts from his standard the sections that make up the upper. These sections are the vamp, and the vamp curve which is necessary to give the right shape of the vamp, the counter and the toe cap. These shapes are then cut out of the leather.

Preparation and assembly of the pieces that make up the upper (15h)

The stitcher reduces the thickness of the edges of the leather with a knife then burns them to take off any of the loose fibres. The edges are then stained and finally stitched together by hand.

Assembly of the upper, the sole and the heel (20h)

The maker prepares the leather pieces for the foundation of the boot. The sole is hand-stitched using an awl. The edges of the sole and the heel are then trimmed into shape and made smooth. Dye and wax are applied onto the raw edges to seal and colour them. Finally the smoothing iron is used on the sole to shine and waterproof the edges.

Creation of the boot tree
(15 – 16 h)

The tree-maker creates a tree which will maintain the contours of the boot. The tree is made up of four pieces of wood: the foot, the front part of the leg, the back part of the leg and the middle shaft which keeps all of these parts together.

Finishing touches … (1h)

The polisher carefully cleans the boot, feeding the leather with a protective cream. For a mirrorlike shine, the polish is applied in circular movements with a damp cloth, concentrating principally on the heel and toe of the boot.