Les Inrockuptibles
May 12th, 2009
by Olivier Niklaus
3 questions to Art Historian
Olivia Bransbourg
«Opening poetic perspectives»
Her magazine ICONOfly dedicates each issue to one fashion accessory.
Newest: the bracelet celebrated by David Lynch, Pierre La Police or Andres Serrano.
What is the genesis of your magazine?
My idea was to combine art, history and crafts around a fashion accessory per issue. The first items were the bags, watches, glasses and boots. This time, the bracelet. In each issue, I give carte blanche to artists (writers, painters, cartoonists, perfumers, chefs, photographers, etc..) who create poetic perspectives on the selected accessory ...
For the bracelet, who did you invite?
David Lynch made a drawing in which he imagines the bracelet as the junction between the hand and the rest of the body. Andres Serrano linked hands in a prayer and Pierre La Police infuses in bracelets magical powers.
What is your business model?
We are not in the traditional press. ICONOfly is printed in 40,000 copies and available in selected locations. In Paris for example: Café de Flore, at Colette, at Artcurial in some hotels ... Each issue is funded by brands that become patrons of artists. My role is to ensure artists a complete freedom.
MING PAO WEEKLY
All About Boots: Past Present & Future
by Dawn Hung
While most of the Hong Kongers are focusing on the giantic free mag Pedderzine, the latest issue of Paris free magazine ICONOfly has slightly slipped in On Pedder, with a rather compact size. The former is a pictorial catalogue, filled with seasonal goodies like shoes and bags. The later is issued bilingually in French and English, with a totally opposite approach by including the past, present and future of boots, spiced up with an in-depth exploration.
The founder and my friend Olivia Bransbourg is an experienced publisher, who also started this little booklet in 2006 summer with Delphine de Malherbe. The first issue was designed by the graphic designer Ich & Kar, who did work for international fashion from brands such as YSL and Givenchy. The torch is now passed to the up and coming graphic designer Toan Vu-Huu.
Under the main theme, the magazine has explored the rare yet interesting history of boots. Besides putting an eye on the fashion classics, they have also expanded our vision to Mongolia and Africa. In order to weave the world history of boots, they have also disected them from different perspectives and presentations such as literature, photography, cartoons and drawings. The word play Asparagus Boot in the receipe is my favorite pick.
ICONOfly issues all over the world, including Paris, Colette, Printemps Haussmann department stores, French Sofitel Hotels and Paris Fashion Museum. It is also available in Harrod's and Sketch in London. Hong Kong readers can find it in On Pedder.
ICONOfly 4-Les Bottes
Distribution point _ On Pedder 2118 3489
Website _ www.iconofly.com
Pulp
Founder of the French review ICONOfly, Olivia Bransbourg belongs to the category of people who want to explore beyond the traditional landscape of French luxury publishing.
That is why she has created a different type of publication that puts fashion accessories – such as travel bags, glasses, watches and boots – in touch with art and culture.
Each issue is sponsored by luxury brands that know they can rely on the review’s avant-garde approach. Every subject is explored through a range of creative approaches such as poems, texts, photographs, illustrations, etc...
ICONOfly is distributed internationally throughout selected luxury stores
around the world.
How did the idea of Iconofly come up? Did the magazine come first, with other activities following suit?
During 8 years, I worked for museums, galleries and artists, in France, Germany and England. I used to travel extensively and during this time was dreaming up a small format magazine that would be easy to handle and not heavy to carry, that did not use «evident» advertising and in which I could discover and display original and artistic content.
ICONOfly’s first issue was published in summer 2006 and was devoted to the traveller’s bag – its history, manufacturing and artistic metamorphosis. At the time of the second issue (Diary of a Watch), luxury groups and brands began to approach us to develop specific content and commission artists to create original works for their own communication purposes. This was also the case for issues 3 (diary of Eyewear) and 4 (diary of Boots), which has just come out.
The launch of each issue is also the opportunity to create specific events, with exhibitions of all artworks and the presentation of limited editions, each time sponsored by brands.
What are Iconofly's activities in brand communication?
ICONOfly promotes a new art of communication. We bring together various specialists and artists in order to offer unique stories and original artworks to our partner brands, thereby arousing the imagination. More concretely, some examples of what we have done in recent months are as follow:
- creation of limited editions (the first watchcase with Goyard, a traveller’s pouch with Dognin and upcoming – although still confidential – object realised in an limited edition by John Lobb for ICONOfly)
- commissioning of a novel from French writer Marie Desplechin for Sergio Rossi
- commissioning of a video from French artist Cecile Paris for Salvatore Ferragamo
- features reporting all the different steps involved in the making of tailor-made accessories (glasses by Alain Mikli and boots by John Lobb)
- sponsorship of events where brands can display their own collections (Persol for the launch of the Eyewear Issue - Ferragamo for the launch of the Boots issue).
Have you noticed any recent big trends in the communication market? (i.e. something that is different from the usual advertisements on a billboard, or in a magazine, or in a commercial on TV?)
We have observed that more and more, luxury brands are developing collaborations with artists: Chanel & Mobile Art, Hermès & the H Box, Louis Vuitton & Richard Prince...
They are also looking for differentiated content that explores new imaginary territorities: for example the short film «Room Service» for Dom Perignon.
What is the next issue about? When will it be released?
We are currently working on three different themes: perfume, jewellery and scarves. The final choice will be a matter of inspiration, to be revealed this autumn. Keep your eyes open!
For you, what is the newest essential accessory?
The one that makes you feel unique.
Chicken or Beef?
For lunch or for dinner?